You know how some battery chargers blink green while charging then turn solid green when done? Others are red while charging, and the light goes off when the batteries are charged. That’ll put the kibosh on that war silliness. Every citizen within its borders will die.
Any nation initiating aggression will be annihilated. Anyone engaging in armed conflict will be executed. I'm an author and in one of my books ( Contact Us), an alien takes over Earth. Why couldn't they get together and choose a standard.
On Gen 2 Volt, flashing green = charging and solid green = done. I’d imagine Leafers could have the same issue w/those GM cars.Īnd, unfortunately, for Gen 2 Volt (2016+ Volt), GM decided to REVERSE the indications. If someone needed an emergency charge I wouldn't feel bad if they had to temporarily unplug me from a public charge station, but I would expect them to hang around and not just go off shopping.Ĭwerdna wrote:for them, solid green = charging and flashing green = done. The best I normally get is the possibility of a 120v plug mainly meant for engine block heaters in the winter. TE provides quality electrical and electronic interconnection products for automotive, on- and off-highway, and hybrid and electric vehicles to electrically and mechanically join wires and cables, printed circuit boards, integrated circuit packages, and batteries. Truthfully other than the dealer I've never used a public charging station, they just aren't that common in my area. When you put it that way, I probably wouldn't use the lock in a situation like that, unless I was in dire need of a charge. For those that didn't know it, those Leafs remained attached like a parasite.
#AUTO CONNECTOR LOCK FREE#
I've done it numerous times on Leafs that were done charging that had their damned switch set to LOCK (instead of AUTO nor the middle position of don't lock) on public free L2 charging. All the selected connectors become unglued from the shapes they connect to. To unglue several connectors at once, hold the Ctrl key as you select the connectors, and then press any arrow key. It's very easy to bypass the handle lock. Do one of the following: To unglue one connector, select the connector and press any arrow key on the keyboard. I always feel a little exposed with my '12 that lacks that feature. +1, thats what I use my lock function for on my '13, for plugging my EVSE in public outlets, maybe a little deterrent to someone stealing the EVSE. There are other uses, such as making it more difficult to steal an EVSE that might be plugged into an accessible location. But I used to think it took 2 presses until I tested it myself.Rosier9 wrote:Sole purpose is probably the wrong choice of words. So, controls on an EVSE are not needed unless there are access-control features available. Auto Connector Retainer Secondary Lock 35150-0393, Find Details about Connector, Molex Connector from Auto Connector Retainer Secondary Lock 35150-0393. The contactor inside the EVSE is supposed to drop off within 100mS of losing the control signal (CP, which is the shortest pin) but that isn't fast enough to beat any normal person breaking the connection. At that low power when you pull the connector it is still "live", but at a low enough current as to not damage the connector from arcing when unplugged. I tested this early on myself and found that a door-unlock signal by any means will drop the charging power to about 0.5 kW and unlock the connector for about 15 secs only.
#AUTO CONNECTOR LOCK MANUAL#
The lack of detail in the manual is frankly bizarre. Trivia such as this been passed around on forums since the first owners took possession of the Kona, otherwise many of us would have learned the hard way as well. I don't think it's mentioned in the manual but if it is someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
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